Waves and Tides: The Science of Surfing

4-None

Examines the nature of various classes of waves in the ocean, including: surface waves, tides, internal waves, and planetary waves. The course blends conceptual and quantitative treatments to describe the generation, propagation, and dissipation of ocean waves, as well as measurement and modeling techniques, such as surf forecasting. The course examines how the interplay of ocean wave dynamics, other ocean and atmospheric processes, and coastline shape and bathymetry ultimately dictate the quality of surf along our coastlines.